They’re good for finger buffets and as starters, and look and taste great if served on individual salad leaves (little gems would work well). Having said that, we’ve also been known to pig out on them as a main course with a salad. They freeze well if they’re left unstuffed, taking only 5 minutes to defrost, they’re light and crunchy and a remarkably sophisticated way of eating great seafood. Makes 25-30 profiteroles.

175g unsalted butter

450ml s water

210g strong white bread flour, sifted

1 tsp salt

6 eggs, beaten

225g brown crabmeat

225g white crab meat

Pinch of cayenne

• Grease a baking sheet

• Set oven to 200C Gas mark 7

• Cut the butter into small bits and put into a heavy pan with the water. Heat gently till the butter melts, then bring to a rapid boil.

• Quickly tip the flour in and remove from the heat. Beat energetically with a wooden spoon until the dough is smooth, and is starting to leave the sides of the pan. Add the salt, and set the saucepan in a bowl of cold water to cool for 10 minutes

• Gradually stir eggs into flour mix to make a firm paste, then stir in the brown crabmeat and cayenne

• Pipe or spoon the dough onto the baking sheet in walnut sized blobs and bake for about 20 minutes. They should be light and crisp and golden. Remove from oven.

• As soon as they're cool enough to handle, cut a slit in the bottom of each one, and teaspoon some white crab meat into each one. Alternatively, you can mix the crabmeat with half its weight in cream cheese, and put that in. Serve immediately