This soup has a subtle and complex nutty vegetal flavour, and a light and ultra smooth texture, so works very well as a starter. It’s also lovely as a weekday tea, when it goes beautifully well with sourdough toast or savoury oat biscuits. The frozen chestnuts are available from supermarkets such as Waitrose. Otherwise use 500g fresh chestnuts, soak them for 20 minutes then roast for 20 minutes and peel

375g frozen peeled chestnuts

2 tbsp groundnut oil

1 medium onion, finely chopped

1 medium leek, white only, finely chopped

1 medium fennel bulb, finely chopped, fronds reserved

leaves picked from 3 sprigs lemon thyme (normal thyme if lemon isn’t available)

75 ml dry white wine

500ml vegetable Nage

400ml water

75ml double cream or cashew cream

1 tbsp soy sauce + more to taste

1 tbsp lemon juice + more to taste

knob of (vegan) butter

• Heat the oil in a large saucepan. Fry the onion, leek, fennel and three quarters of the thyme leaves gently for 10 minutes – do not brown. Add the wine and bubble for 2-3 minutes until syrupy

• Add all but 9 chestnuts to the pan along with the stock and water. Bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes. Allow to cool a bit, then liquidize until velvety smooth, then return to the cleaned pan. Season, add the cream, soy sauce and lemon juice. Check for flavour – you may need more lemon juice and soy

• When ready to serve, gently re-heat the soup. Finely slice the chestnuts and gently fry in butter with the remaining thyme leaves for three minutes. Place soup in bowls and scatter with the chestnuts and thyme, and the fennel fronds