A classic soup with, for what looks at first glance to be a simple dish, an amazingly sophisticated flavour

750g live clams

1 tbsp dry white wine

25g butter

1 small onion, finely chopped

100g potatoes, peeled and finely diced

100g carrots or celeriac, peeled and finely diced

1 fresh bay leaf, very finely shredded

300ml milk

2 heaped tablespoons creme fraiche

1 tbsp chopped parsley

• Heat up a medium sized saucepan that has a tight fitting lid till it is good and hot, then throw the clams and then the wine in. Put the lid on tight, and put back onto the heat for 4 minutes. Take off the heat, strain the liquid off the clams into a bowl, and set aside. Take most of the clams from the shells, but leave a few, as they look great when served

• Melt the butter in the pan, and add the onion. Fry gently till soft

• Add the milk, potatoes, carrots or celeriac, creme fraiche, bay leaf and the juices off the clams. Bring gently to a boil, then simmer on a very low heat for 5 to 10 minutes, until the potatoes and carrots are cooked

• Return the clams to the pan, season to taste with salt and pepper, sprinkle with parsley, and serve with lovely bread, and butter