This is a real winner; the broth has a sophisticated sweet vegetal flavour, while the fish, both smoked and unsmoked, and the clams, give it a beautifully fragrant fishiness. Sourdough with butter is the perfect thing to serve it with.

500g live clams

250g lightly smoked haddock in 2.5cm chunks

500g cod in 2.5cm chunks

2 tbsp dry white wine

75g butter

2 tbspns ground nut oil

150g streaky bacon, cut into small pieces (optional)

2 medium sized onions, finely chopped

300g potatoes, peeled and finely diced

300g carrots and/or celeriac, peeled and finely diced

2 fresh bay leaf, very finely shredded

I litre milk

300ml double cream

2 tbsp chopped parsley

• Into a big wok, put the butter and the oil, and heat till quite hot. Add the bacon and fry gently till starting to colour, then add the onions and cook gently till they’re soft and translucent

• Meanwhile, heat up a medium sized saucepan that has a tight fitting lid till it is good and hot, then throw the clams and then the wine in. Put the lid on tight, and put back onto the heat for 4 minutes. Take off the heat, strain the liquid off the clams into a bowl, and set aside.Take most of the clams from the shells, but leave a few, as they look great when served

• When the onions in the wok are cooked, add the milk, potatoes, carrots or celeriac, cream, bay leaf and the juices off the clams. Bring gently to a boil, then simmer on a very low heat for 7 minutes, then add the fish. Cook for another 7 minutes. Then add the clams, season to taste with salt and pepper, sprinkle with parsley, and serve