This is amazingly tasty. Whilst an excellent way to use up a summer glut of tomatoes which can be served cold like gazpachio; it is also wonderful served warm in winter, when you crave a lovely tomato soup, but the tomatoes aren’t great. It isn’t hot, just beautifully and deeply flavoured. You’ll need a blender. It also involves a bit of multi tasking so may take a little longer if you don’t have someone to help you. Queso fresco is a creamy home-made soft Mexican cheese, not unlike ricotta in texture. You’ll need either a couple of j-cloths or a straining bag and some string. If you're short on time crème fraiche or sour cream would work with the soup. Epazote is available from the Cool Chile Company. The cheese can be made in advance as it will last in a fridge for 3-4 days

The Soup

1kg tomatoes (roughly the same size)

2 de arbol chillies, torn open, de-seeded and cut into 4-5 cm pieces

1 pasilla chile, torn open, de-seeded and cut into 4-5 cm pieces

1 chipotle chile, torn open, de-seeded and cut into 4-5 cm pieces

3 tbspns extra virgin olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped

1 tbspn finely chopped chives

1 large bunch of coriander, stems finely chopped and most of the leaves roughly chopped (hold back a few leaves as garnish)

3 level tspns dried oregano leaves

1 heaped tbspn thyme leaves

1 litre chicken or vegetable stock (we use half and half)

2-3 tspns agave syrup (to taste)

(smoked) salt and pepper

Queso fresco (optional, but lovely)

1 litre full fat milk

2 tspns salt

½ tspns dried oregano

½ tspns dried epazote (or fresh lemon thyme leaves)

1 tbspn cider vinegar

To serve:-

Crème fraiche/sour cream/feta cheese/vegan soft cheese (if not using queso fresco)

Handful of good quality tortilla chips

2 avocados peeled and diced at the last minute

• First make the quesa fresco as it needs to drain for at least 30 minutes, ideally an hour or more. Pour the milk into a large saucepan, add the salt and herbs and bring to the boil. As soon as it is properly boiling, add the vinegar and reduce the heat. The mixture should almost immediately split into curds and whey. If it doesn’t add a few drops more vinegar

• Allow to cool for a couple of minutes then pour the mixture into a bowl lined with the j-cloths/straining bag, tie up with string and allow to drain over the bowl for at least 30 minutes. You can speed up the process after this by squeezing more moisture out, as you are looking for a relatively firm cheese

• Once this is achieved, put in a sealed container and keep cool in a fridge. Discard the liquid that drains from the cheese

• To make the soup, boil a kettle. Turn the grill onto its highest setting.

• Heat a wok or large pan on a medium to high heat. Add the chillies and toast them - you want them toasted just enough for them to soften and bend, become fragrant and slightly darken. Aim for 10-20 seconds each side. Take extra care not to burn the chillies, as it will taint the soup. Set aside the pan/wok, as you will use this later. Once cooked, put the chillies in a bowl and just cover with boiling water. If they float, weigh them down with abother bowl

• Meanwhile, line a large baking tray with foil, and add the tomatoes. Once the grill is up to heat, grill the toms for about 15 minutes, turning occasionally until they are scorched and blackened all over

• Meanwhile, put the pan/wok previously used back onto a medium heat. Add the olive oil, onion and dried oregano and cook for 7 minutes stirring frequently, then add the coriander stalks, chives and plenty of salt and pepper. Sauté for a further 3-4 minutes

• Drain the chillies and chop very finely

• This is the point where everything comes together. To the large pan/wok, add the thyme along with the roast tomatoes and their juices. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring continuously, then add the chillies, coriander leaves and the stock. Slowly bring to the boil and simmer with the lid on over a medium heat for 10 minutes. Take off the heat and allow to cool for a few minutes

• Blend the soup until ultra smooth. If you want a very refined soup, you can then sieve it to remove the tomato seeds. Adjust the flavour by slowly adding the agave syrup and seasoning

• Ladle into bowls and serve with the remaining coriander leaves, diced avocado, queso fresco and some tortilla crisps on the side